Famiglia
Vicini
The family Vicini, John and Tony are
the quintessential of olive culture romance. With
only one hundred trees scattered throughout locations
in Bennett Valley, and plans for cultivating another
two hundred of Tuscan variety on their property in
Windsor, Vicini Grove offers a high quality olive
oil which is pressed in Mill Valley's Frantoio Restaurant
at the rate of about $350/tons. At Frantoio, the olives
are traditionally pressed. After a cool water rinse,
they are crushed beneath enormous granite stones,
a forty-minute affair. The olive paste is briefly
mixed to hasten the separation of oil from vegetable
matter after which the paste is spread on nylon mats,
stacked and slowly pressed. Oil and vegetable water
flow down the sides of the stacked mats, are pumped
into a centrifuge which completes the separation.
The yield for their 100 olive trees will be approximately
1,300 lbs. of olives which will translate into 22
gallons of olive oil or 200 half liter bottles. The
newly planted varieties will be Tucson style —
Frantorio, Maurolino, Pendolino and Leccino.
Staglin
Family
The Staglin Family Vineyard produced
about 7000 cases of wine, Cabernet and Chardonnay
this year and 1000 - 375ml. bottles of olive oil from
the Mission, Redding, Picholine, and Manzanilla, Uvaria
and Columela varietals. Their boutique olive oil business
showcases in Neiman Marcus. Having purchased 14 one-hundred-year-old
trees from the Oroville area as perimeter landscaping
for their property in Rutherford, the Staglin's decided
to try their hands at olive oil production. With their
success and enthusiasm they have plans to expand their
plantings and their investment in the California olive
culture.
DeVero
Reverse engineering fueled the vision
of Colleen McGlynn and her husband, Ridgely Evers.
Challenging the notion that the older the tree the
better the olive oil, the couple searched Europe for
a climate and regional cuisine similar to Sonoma County.
In Lucca, Italy, on an 800 year, old estate they discovered
a match and an amazing quality of olive oil. Evers
convinced the owners to allow him take cuttings back
to Healdsburg where he replicated the exact blend
of varieties grown on the Lucca estate. With proportions
of 50% Leccino, 25% Frantoio, 15% Maurino and 10%
Pendolino the crop began its six year development.
McGlynn says, "Our first harvest was in 1994.
We made 25 gallons that year."
Evers
and McGlynn take their olives to the custom press
at Frantoio in Mill Valley where the end result is
distinctive, rich and full-flavored with notes of
pepper and fennel and a slightly bitter-green finish.
"The flavor profile is right where we want it."
says former chef, McGlynn DaVero was the first American
oil to receive the legal label, Extra Virgin, from
the International Olive Oil Council, and after winning
a superlative rating in a tasting contest held Perugia,
Italy against French and Italian oils, Europe's seasoned
experts declared Davero to be "davvero,"
in Italian "The real thing.''